Then, prep your floor by sanding and cleaning it. Minimize this problem by applying thinner coats or by switching from standard brush-on poly to a wipe-on or spray finish, both of which can be applied in very thin coats. Can polyurethane floors be recoated? Typically, when you are thinning out oil-based polyurethane or oil-based varnish, you will be working with mineral spirits. For a perfect finish use sandpaper between polyurethane coats. 3. You can then apply three coats of polyurethane to your floor, allowing each coat to dry, then sanding it and cleaning the floor in between coats. The usual ratio is about 3 or 4 parts varnish to one part of the mineral spirits. After each coat, re-dip the roller in mineral spirits and put it into a zippered plastic bag for the next coat and leave the wet tray to dry. However, you can go as far as half mineral spirits and half poly. The floor poly just has a harder finish that would wear better for foot traffic. Also, we have noticed what looks like dust or sanding particles in the finish. Drying and curing times are increased in high humidity, so always be cautious before using your freshly-finished floor. Using a wax, furniture polish or other kinds of products will cause an adhesion issue for new polyurethane (it will bubble and peel off like a sunburn). 4-6 hrs before you can walk on the floors; Hours 6-24, you can walk on the floors with socks. Yes, a polyurethane-finished hardwood floor may have additional coats of polyurethane applied. The process: 1. With your workpiece wiped clean, apply stain, photo below. Apply the first coat of polyurethane, thinning it out with up to half of its volume of paint thinner. To be safe, I wait 72 hours before moving the furniture back into the room (but you can walk in stocking feet after 12-18 hours). Q: How soon after the third coat of poly can you walk on polyurethane floors / hardwood floor?How soon after the third coat of poly can you put the furniture back on the floor? If Minwax® Sanding Sealer is used prior to Super Fast-Drying Polyurethane for Floors, apply following the label directions. Hand sand corners, edges and under cabinet kick plates. Lightly sand with a dull 120 to 150 grit abrasive screen or #2 steel wool under a heavy floor buffer. Sand the small bubbles and drip marks with fine grit sandpaper. Between coats of polyurethane, examine the surface of the wood for imperfections in the finish. You can create such an area by hanging an inexpensive vinyl shower curtain in a corner of your shop. Even though it does dry quickly, keep in mind that every finish needs time to “cure” and harden. Avoid shoes and bare feet. Either poly would have the same appearance. Let it be, and it will flatten out. Many times you can recoat your exisiting finish by buffing it down and applying a new coat over the old. (Skip the stain if you intend to leave your workpiece natural-color.) I keep a can of spray poly handy in case of bubbles. Apply stain and poly Move to a low-dust setting: somewhere without lots of foot traffic and with dust-free surfaces. A light mist knocks them out. If you already have an open can of the floor poly I would go ahead and use it otherwise I would save money and get the standard poly. Avoid heavy traffic, and do not install rugs or clean floors for seven days. Start by choosing a type of polyurethane (oil or water-based) as well as a finish (matte or glossy), and make sure your work area is well-ventilated. When replacing furniture, do not slide. In a couple of hours, the dried poly just peels right out of the pan. The pro’s will call it a buff and recoat. This will allow the finish to dry faster, so you can sand the surface sooner. 2. 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